Handgun Barrel Length
Barrel length is one of the variables you will have to
choose when purchasing a handgun. In
many cases, the determining factor will simply be what you prefer. However, there are some very real differences
that translate to advantages and disadvantages between barrel lengths. I will go over those differences and tell you
my preferences and reasoning.
Please note, the way you measure the barrel length on
revolving pistols (revolvers) and autoloading pistols is different. When you measure the barrel on a revolver,
you do not include the chamber. This means
that a four inch barrel on a revolver is equivalent to a five inch barrel on an
auto.
Longer barrels give you higher velocities. This may be important for hunting or
long-range target shooting. The general
rule is 15 to 30 feet per second per inch of barrel length. The reason is the longer the barrel the more
powder can burn before the bullet exits the firearm. Remember that when you are comparing calibers
from a ballistics table. Many of the
published velocities for magnum cartridges are obtained from six or even eight
inch barrels. If you are shooting a two
inch barrel .357 magnum, you are not going to get the same velocities and might
be served just as well shooting .38 specials out of the same pistol for less
muzzle blast.
Longer barrels have less muzzle blast and flash. Muzzle blast is caused by unburned
powder. Getting a more complete burn
reduces the noise and flash. Reduced
muzzle flash can be important if you have to shoot your handgun in the
dark. The majority of defensive
shootings occur in low light and too much muzzle flash can blind you
temporarily.
Longer barrels can allow for a longer sight radius. In general, the longer the sight radius, the
easier it is to see variations in your sight alignment. A longer sight radius makes it easier to
achieve subjective accuracy. Accuracy is
important for target shooting and hunting but is less so for defensive
shooting. Virtually all defensive
handgun shooting occurs at conversational distances (“Gimme yer wallet!”) with
most occurring at contact ranges. While
I like getting the most accuracy I can, it’s a tertiary concern- behind
reliability and power- in a defensive handgun.
Longer barrels cut down on felt recoil. The added weight and leverage gained by a
longer barrel reduce muzzle rise.
Shorter barrels have several advantages. They make the pistol shorter and lighter and,
to a certain extent, more concealable. A
shorter barrel also makes the pistol easier to draw quickly. When a barrel gets beyond a certain length,
it restricts the type of holsters and carry positions you can use.
Shorter barrels also have some disadvantages. Disadvantages include reduced velocity,
reduced sight radius (not important if you use a micro-red dot), increased
muzzle blast (which can be mitigated by tailoring your ammunition to your
weapon), and, in autoloaders, decreased reliability. That last disadvantage is the most
concerning.
I’ll use the 1911 as an example but the mechanics apply
across most designs. The 1911 was
designed with a 5 inch barrel and a 16 pound recoil spring.
The 5 inch barrel gives the maximum reliability in the
1911. If we reduce the barrel length, we
also reduce the distance the slide can move when it ejects the fired case and
loads the new cartridge. The pistol will
become less tolerant of variations in bullet profile and cartridge length.
You also have to get the same amount of work done in less space
which means the recoil spring has to be stronger. The standard spring rate in a 4 inch barrel
1911 goes up to 18 pounds and it increases to 20 pounds with a three inch
barrel. Increasing the recoil spring
rate makes the pistol less tolerant of variations in ammunition recoil and the
1911 is a recoil operated mechanism.
Heavier recoil springs also make the pistol more sensitive to
limp-wristing. Limp-wristing is just
what it sounds like, you fire the pistol with a limp wrist. This can induce malfunctions because the
shooter is not providing enough resistance for the spring to work against.
Finally, the 1911 is a tipping barrel design. The shorter barrels end up at more extreme
angles than longer barrels when the slide is in its rearmost position. Again, this increases the sensitivity to bullet
profile and cartridge overall length. Most
modern auto pistols use a cam design rather than the swinging link of the 1911
which makes the barrel tipping less of an issue but it can still cause problems
in the subcompacts. There are a couple
of designs that use a rotating barrel or other locking system that don’t have
this particular concern.
You can tailor your ammunition to suit your pistol and
reduce some of the problems caused by a too-short barrel. Regardless of what handgun you use, you
should test the ammunition you intend to carry for compatibility and
reliability in your pistol. Testing two
to five hundred rounds of your intended carry ammo is not unreasonable for a
defensive firearm. Ammunition using
faster powders can help reduce muzzle blast in a short barrel.
So, for a carry weapon, the idea is to choose a barrel
length that gives a good balance between the advantages and disadvantages for
your given situation.
For dedicated target or hunting handguns I prefer a six to
eight inch barrel. With barrels that
long, I use a crossdraw holster. I find anything
longer than eight inches to be unwieldy regardless of my intended use. Examples include my old bullseye target
pistol which is a Ruger .22 long rifle with a six and seven-eighths inch barrel
and a Ruger Bisley .44 magnum with a 7 ½ inch barrel. The long barrel in the .44 magnum reduces
muzzle blast and recoil considerably.
One of the few advantages of a handgun over a long gun is
portability. You have to carry a rifle
but you wear a handgun. If I’m working
in bear country, a slung rifle can get in the way but a holstered pistol can go
almost unnoticed all day. My everyday
carry gun when I’m boondocking in areas with large animals is a four inch barrel
Smith and Wesson .44 magnum. With that
barrel length I get the velocity and subjective accuracy I need without making
the pistol heavy and unwieldy. The
recoil is unpleasant but not unmanageable.
I carry the pistol in a strong side belt holster or horizontal shoulder
holster.
I have several pistols that I have carried for
self-defense. I don’t like a barrel
shorter than four inches in an autoloader or three inches in a revolver. I don’t mind carrying a full-sized five inch
barrel 1911. I find the bulk in the
grips and action is more of a concern for concealment than the barrel
length. I usually use an inside the
waistband (IWB) belt holster that keeps most of the pistol out of sight. I prefer the four inch barrel on the autos to
reduce weight rather than size. I carry
a five inch barrel 1911 .45 ACP in a strong side IWB or horizontal shoulder
holster. I carry a Taurus 24/7 .45 ACP
with a four inch barrel in a strong side IWB.
I use lighter bullets with faster powder in the Taurus to cut down on
muzzle flash and recoil. Please note,
one of the reasons I prefer the .45 ACP is that it is a low pressure round with
minimal muzzle flash to begin with. Sometimes
I will carry a 2 ½ inch barrel Smith and Wesson model 19 .357 magnum in a strong
side, high-ride, outside the waistband holster.
I use +P .38 specials rather than magnum ammo to cut down on the recoil
and muzzle blast without giving up much velocity in that short barrel. I jokingly say that I carry the .38 when I
don’t feel the need to go armed.
