Rifle Marksmanship
1. Treat all weapons as if they were loaded.
2. Never point your muzzle at anything you’re not willing to destroy.
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until the sights are on your target.
4. Be absolutely certain of your target and what is behind and beyond.
Shooting a rifle is actually easier than shooting a pistol. Because rifles are generally capable of much more accuracy than pistols, the basic principles of marksmanship become more apparent. These principles can be applied whether you are shooting rifle or pistol.
In the field and in certain types of competition, you may be under time pressure. Ideally, you’d be able to take all the time you want to make the shot. When you are under time pressure - whether it’s from an official with a timer or because the charging grizzly is about to arrive - you still have to apply the basics, just faster.
In practice, instead of hurrying the shot to develop speed, you should practice the basics until they are second nature. The more you practice correctly, the faster you will become naturally. This is also true when learning the draw and fire pistols quickly.
For casual shooting or practice a time limit isn’t necessary. As you get more comfortable with the process, you’ll find yourself needing less and less time. I find target shooting to be very relaxing; almost meditative.
These are the basic principles as I see them and in order of importance rather than the order you’ll apply them; for example, you will apply Body Position before Sight Alignment but I consider Sight Alignment the more critical of the two.
1.a. Sight alignment.
1.b. Trigger control.
2. Follow through.
3. Body position.
4. Breathing.
These principles combine to form the integrated act of firing. When combined and executed properly, they will result in hitting your target. Initially, they will seem awkward but, by concentrating and practicing each element, they will become reflexive and coordinated.
The trick to hitting your target is to have the shot fire (or “break”) while the sights are aligned with the target. Sight Alignment and Trigger Control are equal in importance and parts of the same principle. You must align your sights with the target and then you must fire the rifle without disturbing that alignment.
There are several different types of rifle sights requiring differing levels of alignment. Open sights are the most difficult to use and, if you learn to use them well, using peep sights or scopes is a snap. Since this is what you have on your rifle, for my examples I’ll refer to a set of iron sights consisting of a flat blade or post up front and a flat topped blade with a square notch in back.
Your line of sight will extend from your eye, through the rear sight, to the front sight, and on to the target. Your eye can only focus at one distance at a time. Look out your window at a tree. Now hold up a finger in front of the tree. If you focus on the tree, the tree will be clear but the finger will be fuzzy. If you focus on the finger, the tree will be fuzzy. Because of this fact, only the target, the front sight, or the back sight can be in perfect focus at any one time. Notice that with a little concentration, you can shift your focus back and forth between the tree and your finger.
The front and rear sights are closer to each other than either one is to the target. This means that errors in alignment between the front and rear sight are more critical than an error in alignment with the target. So, you want to concentrate more on the alignment between the sights than the alignment of the sights with the target. In order to do that, you will begin by focusing on the target as you align the sights. When you are on target, and as you squeeze the trigger, you will shift your focus from the target to the front sight. Before the shot breaks you may shift your focus back and forth between the target and the front sight but it is absolutely critical that your focus is on the front sight when the shot actually breaks. As you squeeze the trigger, you must concentrate on keeping the front sight exactly aligned with the back sight. You will also attempt to keep the front sight on the target but that is less critical. When your shot breaks, if the sight alignment is perfect, if the front sight is anywhere on the target, you will get a hit. If your sight alignment is not perfect when the shot breaks, even though the front sight is exactly centered on the target, you will probably miss.
Sight alignment is what you see when you look through your sights. Sight picture is what you see when you include the target. Generally the sight alignment you will use with your iron sights is the top of the front sight exactly even with the top of the rear sight and equal amounts of light visible on either side of the front sight in the rear sight notch (front sight centered in the rear notch). The sight picture you will use is the center hold in which the exact top center of your front sight is held right where you want your bullet to strike. Some target shooters use a 6 o’clock hold in which the bullet strikes at the center of an imaginary clock face while the top of the front sight is below that at the 6 o’clock position of the same clock. I prefer a center hold for most field shooting. Depending on how you have your rifle zeroed and the distance of your target, you may have to aim above or even a little below the target you want to hit. We can get into trajectories and zeroing another time.
If you are paying attention to your sight picture when the shot breaks, you should be able to call your shot. Calling the shot means you can tell where the shot went when it broke. If your sight alignment was perfect and the front sight was centered on the target when the shot broke, you will call a center hit. If the sight alignment was perfect but the front sight was a bit high on the target, you will call a slightly high shot. If the front sight was perfectly centered on the target but was a bit to the right in the rear sight notch, you will call a shot well to the right.
You have to pull the trigger to get the rifle to fire. You don’t want your sights to move off the target because you are pulling the trigger so you have to control your trigger pull. Perfecting trigger control can be a lifetime challenge and, although some great shots come close, nobody has perfect trigger control and sight alignment. The closer you can get to perfection, the better shot you will be.
For such a tiny movement, pulling the trigger takes an amazing amount of concentration and dexterity. In fact, rather than use the term “pull,” let’s use the term “squeeze” as a squeeze is more controlled than a pull. Remember to squeeze the trigger directly to the rear- sideways pressure can cause your shot to go sideways.
Triggers differ in their mechanics and feel. As you squeeze the trigger, you will probably feel several stages. The first thing you may feel is slack. Trigger slack offers almost no resistance to your finger as you squeeze and indicates you are bringing the trigger back into contact with the sear mechanism. When you have taken up all the slack, you should feel some resistance begin. This heavier resistance indicates you are beginning to move the sear mechanism prior to breaking the shot and is called take up. If you are very sensitive, you may feel a slight increase in resistance just before the shot breaks. I use this slight increase as an indication to really concentrate on my sight alignment and shift my focus to the front sight. When the shot breaks, you may feel a sudden decrease in resistance as the sear is released. Any further movement of the trigger to the rear after the shot breaks is called overtravel.
There are several things you can do to mess up your sight alignment as you squeeze the trigger. You can try to get the shot to break as the sights get perfectly aligned by jerking the trigger. Jerking the trigger will move the sights as the shot breaks and you will miss. If you anticipate the recoil and try to counteract it by moving your shoulder forward, this is called bucking. You can also anticipate the muzzle blast and flinch. Jerking, bucking, and flinching will all cause a miss. To avoid these errors, you can use the surprise break.
A surprise trigger break is just what it sounds like, you are surprised when the shot breaks. You steadily and smoothly squeeze the trigger while concentrating on your sight picture but you don’t know exactly when the shot is going to break. That way, you don’t have the opportunity to jerk, buck or flinch.
A better method of achieving the surprise break is to increase the pressure on the trigger only while the sights are perfectly aligned. When the sights drift out of alignment, hold the pressure you have on the trigger steady and, when the sights drift back into alignment, begin increasing the pressure again. Eventually, the shot will break.
You can be a good shot with either method but you can be a much better shot with the second. Both techniques can be executed very quickly and, as you practice, you will find yourself breaking the shot more and more quickly. You will also find that with practice they will become reflexive and won’t require as much concentration.
Eventually, as you practice, you may find yourself intentionally breaking the shot as the sight picture looks perfect. Don’t try to do this at first as you will almost always jerk the trigger and pull the shot. With lots of practice you will learn to feel exactly when the shot is about to break and finish that break just as the sights drift past the target. This is a very controlled movement and nothing like a jerk. Don’t force this. Stick with the surprise break until this technique develops naturally.
If you get a good trigger break and are concentrating on the sights, you should be able to call your shot and tell if it went high, low, left, right, whatever, and even how far off center it went. Get in the habit of mentally calling the shot so that you can compare where you thought the shot went with where it really went.
Note that safely dry-firing is a superb way to practice sight alignment and trigger control without burning up ammo or going to the range. If you can master these two elements, you can be an excellent shot.
The next principles are of lesser import than the first two but will prove to be a great aid in accuracy.
Although it seems instantaneous, it takes a tiny bit of time between the sear releasing and the bullet leaving the muzzle for a rifle to fire. You can actually mess up a perfect shot by moving the rifle during this time. Follow through will keep you from messing up an otherwise perfect shot. Follow through is simply the act of following through after the shot breaks. Try to maintain a perfect sight picture even as the rifle is firing. Larger caliber rifles will recoil and you will likely lose your sight picture; with these, try to reacquire your sight picture after the rifle comes down out of recoil. Follow through not only prevents you from pulling the shot off target before the bullet has a chance to leave the barrel, it assures that the rifle will recoil the same way every time- consistency leads to accuracy.
Body position is important because it allows you to hold your rifle in the steadiest manner with the least effort. I’ve included a copy of an article by Jeff Cooper that describes the basic rifle shooting positions. There are several other common positions as well as supported positions and an infinite number of variations besides the most common ones presented in the article. They’re really much easier to demonstrate than describe. Once you understand the basic principles behind shooting positions they become quite natural.
Proper breathing is given a great deal of attention by most marksmanship instructors. I find that I become aware of my breathing just in the act of concentration on my sight alignment so I don’t place breath control as high in importance.
As you breathe, your body moves. As your body moves, you will see your sights move (usually up and down). To minimize this movement you don’t want to be breathing while you break the shot. Now, if you stop breathing entirely, you will pass out and very few great shots are made by unconscious sharpshooters. The solution is to stop breathing only for the brief period while you are squeezing your trigger.
Take a couple of deep, relaxed breaths to oxygenate the blood. Now, breathe out naturally until your lungs are relaxed; you could force yourself to exhale more at this point but you want to be as relaxed as possible. This point, where your lungs aren’t strained and held in either an inhale or exhale, is called the natural respiratory pause. While you are in the natural respiratory pause, you want to use your sight alignment and trigger control to break the shot. If you find you need air, stop your trigger squeeze, take a deep relaxed breath, and reestablish your sight alignment and continue your trigger squeeze. If it takes you more than a few seconds to break your shot, you’ll need air so go ahead and breathe. You can lower your rifle and breathe for a few seconds before reestablishing your position and trying to shoot again if necessary. Again, as you practice, your trigger squeeze will get faster and you’ll have less difficulty breaking the shot during your natural respiratory pause.
Another breath control technique is used when you’re breathing hard and need to get a shot off quickly- say after you’ve been chasing the bear awhile and the bear decides he wants to chase you instead. Simply tighten your diaphragm and stop breathing for the moment it takes to break the shot. Tighten your diaphragm and abdomen the same way you would if someone were about to drop a medicine ball on it.
Beyond breathing, some shooters’ concentration is so intense they become aware of their heartbeat while shooting and actually break the shot between heartbeats.
So, let’s talk you through an imaginary shot and apply the marksmanship principles to the integrated act of firing. You’re going to be shooting your rifle at a target 50 yards away, from the standing position (least steady position).
You take your shooting stance and shoulder your rifle. You look through your sights and align them with your target while you get your breathing under control. Relax as much as your stance allows. Focus on the target and bring your sights to the center of the target. Shift your focus to your front sight and concentrate on your sight alignment. The top of the front sight should be exactly even with the top of the rear sight and perfectly centered in the notch (equal amounts of light on either side). Inhale and then exhale until you reach your natural respiratory pause and begin squeezing the trigger. Your sights will wander a bit as nobody can hold a rifle perfectly still but that’s okay. Concentrate on the front sight. If you have to, shift your focus back to the target but you always want your focus to be on the front sight when the shot breaks. As your sights wander off the target hold the pressure on the trigger steady until the sights wander back on target- then resume increasing the pressure. The shot surprises you when it goes off but you were concentrating on your sight alignment and saw that the front sight was a tiny bit to the left of the rear sight notch so you call your shot to the left. You follow through by reacquiring your sight picture and holding it for a moment before lowering your rifle. Remember to breathe again. When you check your target you find you’ve made a good hit just a bit to the left as you called it.
This whole process can be accomplished in less than a second, with practice. The secret is concentration and practice. As I wrote before, I find the combination of relaxation and concentration to be meditative and most enjoyable.
The following checklist was written by Marine Corps Gunnery Sergeant Carlos N. Hathcock II. Gunny Hathcock won the Wimbledon cup for 1,000 yard target shooting. He printed this list up on cards and insisted that all of his students carry it with them. These principles apply to each shot taken.
Obviously, “Stare at Crosshairs” only applies if you’re shooting with a scope. For iron sights, change that to “Stare at Front Sight.” “Spot weld” is another term for “cheek weld.”
Body Alignment - Natural Point of Aim
Firm Handshake Grip
Firm in Shoulder
Eye Relief - Spot Weld - No Shadow
Stare at Crosshairs - Target is a Blur
Slow Steady Pressure on Trigger to the Rear
Natural Respiratory Pause
Follow Through
1. Treat all weapons as if they were loaded.
2. Never point your muzzle at anything you’re not willing to destroy.
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until the sights are on your target.
4. Be absolutely certain of your target and what is behind and beyond.
Shooting a rifle is actually easier than shooting a pistol. Because rifles are generally capable of much more accuracy than pistols, the basic principles of marksmanship become more apparent. These principles can be applied whether you are shooting rifle or pistol.
In the field and in certain types of competition, you may be under time pressure. Ideally, you’d be able to take all the time you want to make the shot. When you are under time pressure - whether it’s from an official with a timer or because the charging grizzly is about to arrive - you still have to apply the basics, just faster.
In practice, instead of hurrying the shot to develop speed, you should practice the basics until they are second nature. The more you practice correctly, the faster you will become naturally. This is also true when learning the draw and fire pistols quickly.
For casual shooting or practice a time limit isn’t necessary. As you get more comfortable with the process, you’ll find yourself needing less and less time. I find target shooting to be very relaxing; almost meditative.
These are the basic principles as I see them and in order of importance rather than the order you’ll apply them; for example, you will apply Body Position before Sight Alignment but I consider Sight Alignment the more critical of the two.
1.a. Sight alignment.
1.b. Trigger control.
2. Follow through.
3. Body position.
4. Breathing.
These principles combine to form the integrated act of firing. When combined and executed properly, they will result in hitting your target. Initially, they will seem awkward but, by concentrating and practicing each element, they will become reflexive and coordinated.
The trick to hitting your target is to have the shot fire (or “break”) while the sights are aligned with the target. Sight Alignment and Trigger Control are equal in importance and parts of the same principle. You must align your sights with the target and then you must fire the rifle without disturbing that alignment.
There are several different types of rifle sights requiring differing levels of alignment. Open sights are the most difficult to use and, if you learn to use them well, using peep sights or scopes is a snap. Since this is what you have on your rifle, for my examples I’ll refer to a set of iron sights consisting of a flat blade or post up front and a flat topped blade with a square notch in back.
Your line of sight will extend from your eye, through the rear sight, to the front sight, and on to the target. Your eye can only focus at one distance at a time. Look out your window at a tree. Now hold up a finger in front of the tree. If you focus on the tree, the tree will be clear but the finger will be fuzzy. If you focus on the finger, the tree will be fuzzy. Because of this fact, only the target, the front sight, or the back sight can be in perfect focus at any one time. Notice that with a little concentration, you can shift your focus back and forth between the tree and your finger.
The front and rear sights are closer to each other than either one is to the target. This means that errors in alignment between the front and rear sight are more critical than an error in alignment with the target. So, you want to concentrate more on the alignment between the sights than the alignment of the sights with the target. In order to do that, you will begin by focusing on the target as you align the sights. When you are on target, and as you squeeze the trigger, you will shift your focus from the target to the front sight. Before the shot breaks you may shift your focus back and forth between the target and the front sight but it is absolutely critical that your focus is on the front sight when the shot actually breaks. As you squeeze the trigger, you must concentrate on keeping the front sight exactly aligned with the back sight. You will also attempt to keep the front sight on the target but that is less critical. When your shot breaks, if the sight alignment is perfect, if the front sight is anywhere on the target, you will get a hit. If your sight alignment is not perfect when the shot breaks, even though the front sight is exactly centered on the target, you will probably miss.
Sight alignment is what you see when you look through your sights. Sight picture is what you see when you include the target. Generally the sight alignment you will use with your iron sights is the top of the front sight exactly even with the top of the rear sight and equal amounts of light visible on either side of the front sight in the rear sight notch (front sight centered in the rear notch). The sight picture you will use is the center hold in which the exact top center of your front sight is held right where you want your bullet to strike. Some target shooters use a 6 o’clock hold in which the bullet strikes at the center of an imaginary clock face while the top of the front sight is below that at the 6 o’clock position of the same clock. I prefer a center hold for most field shooting. Depending on how you have your rifle zeroed and the distance of your target, you may have to aim above or even a little below the target you want to hit. We can get into trajectories and zeroing another time.
If you are paying attention to your sight picture when the shot breaks, you should be able to call your shot. Calling the shot means you can tell where the shot went when it broke. If your sight alignment was perfect and the front sight was centered on the target when the shot broke, you will call a center hit. If the sight alignment was perfect but the front sight was a bit high on the target, you will call a slightly high shot. If the front sight was perfectly centered on the target but was a bit to the right in the rear sight notch, you will call a shot well to the right.
You have to pull the trigger to get the rifle to fire. You don’t want your sights to move off the target because you are pulling the trigger so you have to control your trigger pull. Perfecting trigger control can be a lifetime challenge and, although some great shots come close, nobody has perfect trigger control and sight alignment. The closer you can get to perfection, the better shot you will be.
For such a tiny movement, pulling the trigger takes an amazing amount of concentration and dexterity. In fact, rather than use the term “pull,” let’s use the term “squeeze” as a squeeze is more controlled than a pull. Remember to squeeze the trigger directly to the rear- sideways pressure can cause your shot to go sideways.
Triggers differ in their mechanics and feel. As you squeeze the trigger, you will probably feel several stages. The first thing you may feel is slack. Trigger slack offers almost no resistance to your finger as you squeeze and indicates you are bringing the trigger back into contact with the sear mechanism. When you have taken up all the slack, you should feel some resistance begin. This heavier resistance indicates you are beginning to move the sear mechanism prior to breaking the shot and is called take up. If you are very sensitive, you may feel a slight increase in resistance just before the shot breaks. I use this slight increase as an indication to really concentrate on my sight alignment and shift my focus to the front sight. When the shot breaks, you may feel a sudden decrease in resistance as the sear is released. Any further movement of the trigger to the rear after the shot breaks is called overtravel.
There are several things you can do to mess up your sight alignment as you squeeze the trigger. You can try to get the shot to break as the sights get perfectly aligned by jerking the trigger. Jerking the trigger will move the sights as the shot breaks and you will miss. If you anticipate the recoil and try to counteract it by moving your shoulder forward, this is called bucking. You can also anticipate the muzzle blast and flinch. Jerking, bucking, and flinching will all cause a miss. To avoid these errors, you can use the surprise break.
A surprise trigger break is just what it sounds like, you are surprised when the shot breaks. You steadily and smoothly squeeze the trigger while concentrating on your sight picture but you don’t know exactly when the shot is going to break. That way, you don’t have the opportunity to jerk, buck or flinch.
A better method of achieving the surprise break is to increase the pressure on the trigger only while the sights are perfectly aligned. When the sights drift out of alignment, hold the pressure you have on the trigger steady and, when the sights drift back into alignment, begin increasing the pressure again. Eventually, the shot will break.
You can be a good shot with either method but you can be a much better shot with the second. Both techniques can be executed very quickly and, as you practice, you will find yourself breaking the shot more and more quickly. You will also find that with practice they will become reflexive and won’t require as much concentration.
Eventually, as you practice, you may find yourself intentionally breaking the shot as the sight picture looks perfect. Don’t try to do this at first as you will almost always jerk the trigger and pull the shot. With lots of practice you will learn to feel exactly when the shot is about to break and finish that break just as the sights drift past the target. This is a very controlled movement and nothing like a jerk. Don’t force this. Stick with the surprise break until this technique develops naturally.
If you get a good trigger break and are concentrating on the sights, you should be able to call your shot and tell if it went high, low, left, right, whatever, and even how far off center it went. Get in the habit of mentally calling the shot so that you can compare where you thought the shot went with where it really went.
Note that safely dry-firing is a superb way to practice sight alignment and trigger control without burning up ammo or going to the range. If you can master these two elements, you can be an excellent shot.
The next principles are of lesser import than the first two but will prove to be a great aid in accuracy.
Although it seems instantaneous, it takes a tiny bit of time between the sear releasing and the bullet leaving the muzzle for a rifle to fire. You can actually mess up a perfect shot by moving the rifle during this time. Follow through will keep you from messing up an otherwise perfect shot. Follow through is simply the act of following through after the shot breaks. Try to maintain a perfect sight picture even as the rifle is firing. Larger caliber rifles will recoil and you will likely lose your sight picture; with these, try to reacquire your sight picture after the rifle comes down out of recoil. Follow through not only prevents you from pulling the shot off target before the bullet has a chance to leave the barrel, it assures that the rifle will recoil the same way every time- consistency leads to accuracy.
Body position is important because it allows you to hold your rifle in the steadiest manner with the least effort. I’ve included a copy of an article by Jeff Cooper that describes the basic rifle shooting positions. There are several other common positions as well as supported positions and an infinite number of variations besides the most common ones presented in the article. They’re really much easier to demonstrate than describe. Once you understand the basic principles behind shooting positions they become quite natural.
Proper breathing is given a great deal of attention by most marksmanship instructors. I find that I become aware of my breathing just in the act of concentration on my sight alignment so I don’t place breath control as high in importance.
As you breathe, your body moves. As your body moves, you will see your sights move (usually up and down). To minimize this movement you don’t want to be breathing while you break the shot. Now, if you stop breathing entirely, you will pass out and very few great shots are made by unconscious sharpshooters. The solution is to stop breathing only for the brief period while you are squeezing your trigger.
Take a couple of deep, relaxed breaths to oxygenate the blood. Now, breathe out naturally until your lungs are relaxed; you could force yourself to exhale more at this point but you want to be as relaxed as possible. This point, where your lungs aren’t strained and held in either an inhale or exhale, is called the natural respiratory pause. While you are in the natural respiratory pause, you want to use your sight alignment and trigger control to break the shot. If you find you need air, stop your trigger squeeze, take a deep relaxed breath, and reestablish your sight alignment and continue your trigger squeeze. If it takes you more than a few seconds to break your shot, you’ll need air so go ahead and breathe. You can lower your rifle and breathe for a few seconds before reestablishing your position and trying to shoot again if necessary. Again, as you practice, your trigger squeeze will get faster and you’ll have less difficulty breaking the shot during your natural respiratory pause.
Another breath control technique is used when you’re breathing hard and need to get a shot off quickly- say after you’ve been chasing the bear awhile and the bear decides he wants to chase you instead. Simply tighten your diaphragm and stop breathing for the moment it takes to break the shot. Tighten your diaphragm and abdomen the same way you would if someone were about to drop a medicine ball on it.
Beyond breathing, some shooters’ concentration is so intense they become aware of their heartbeat while shooting and actually break the shot between heartbeats.
So, let’s talk you through an imaginary shot and apply the marksmanship principles to the integrated act of firing. You’re going to be shooting your rifle at a target 50 yards away, from the standing position (least steady position).
You take your shooting stance and shoulder your rifle. You look through your sights and align them with your target while you get your breathing under control. Relax as much as your stance allows. Focus on the target and bring your sights to the center of the target. Shift your focus to your front sight and concentrate on your sight alignment. The top of the front sight should be exactly even with the top of the rear sight and perfectly centered in the notch (equal amounts of light on either side). Inhale and then exhale until you reach your natural respiratory pause and begin squeezing the trigger. Your sights will wander a bit as nobody can hold a rifle perfectly still but that’s okay. Concentrate on the front sight. If you have to, shift your focus back to the target but you always want your focus to be on the front sight when the shot breaks. As your sights wander off the target hold the pressure on the trigger steady until the sights wander back on target- then resume increasing the pressure. The shot surprises you when it goes off but you were concentrating on your sight alignment and saw that the front sight was a tiny bit to the left of the rear sight notch so you call your shot to the left. You follow through by reacquiring your sight picture and holding it for a moment before lowering your rifle. Remember to breathe again. When you check your target you find you’ve made a good hit just a bit to the left as you called it.
This whole process can be accomplished in less than a second, with practice. The secret is concentration and practice. As I wrote before, I find the combination of relaxation and concentration to be meditative and most enjoyable.
The following checklist was written by Marine Corps Gunnery Sergeant Carlos N. Hathcock II. Gunny Hathcock won the Wimbledon cup for 1,000 yard target shooting. He printed this list up on cards and insisted that all of his students carry it with them. These principles apply to each shot taken.
Obviously, “Stare at Crosshairs” only applies if you’re shooting with a scope. For iron sights, change that to “Stare at Front Sight.” “Spot weld” is another term for “cheek weld.”
Body Alignment - Natural Point of Aim
Firm Handshake Grip
Firm in Shoulder
Eye Relief - Spot Weld - No Shadow
Stare at Crosshairs - Target is a Blur
Slow Steady Pressure on Trigger to the Rear
Natural Respiratory Pause
Follow Through
Another aid to remembering the basics is the acronym BRASS. This is taught by most target shooting instructors. Similar to the Gunny’s, this is a list of things to remember while taking a shot.
Breathe
Relax
Aim
Sights (Sometimes this is taken as “Stop” to indicate the natural respiratory pause or “Slack” to indicate taking up the trigger slack.)
Squeeze
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